This is the place to ask questions, share information to help answer someone's query or to talk about what programs we use, what techniques we like to help us get the effects we're looking for. To post a question, please use the THREAD feature at the bottom of the page. To answer a question (it doesn't need to be posted here first, it's enough that you know others wonder or that you yourself came up with a solution to a problem you used to have), click EasyEdit and add the question in bold and then the answer below, in plain text.

For clarity I suggest we use a format such as this, for answers:
Answer: text about how to solve the problem [Fire-Valkyrie]
This way multiple members can give their advice without us all changing texts and colours into something that in the end proves difficult to read... I also suggest that a thread, once answered in the FAQ, is deleted from the page. If the answer by necessity becomes very long, I would recommend writing a tutorial, posting it in the tutorial section and then posting a link to it, from this page.

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Q: Everytime I save my jpg image, it gets fuzzier, how can I save my work and keep it's quality?

A: In my own work, I utilize the 'sharpen' option to bring the image back into focus. This is especially true if I've resized it. Remember, the larger you make something, the fuzzier it will become. You can use a combination of sharpen and then soften to get the effect you are looking for. Depending on the program, as well as the version of it, the options will be located in different places. [unknown]

A: An image only gets "fuzzier" when you make it larger if you are increasing the dimensions and not the resolution. The best way to maintain resolution and clarity is to start with a high resolution image, I recommend 300dpi. Think of it as choosing a team. If you only have 72 people [or dpi] to choose your team from, you may have to settle for "good enough", but if you have 300 players [or dpi] to choose from, you are far more likely to get the best possible team. [sylphie]

A: Saving a jpg always means that the image is slightly compressed. This means that if you have a jpg and save it several times, even without making changes to it, you will lose quality. The lower the quality the more "fuzzy squares" will appear in the image. Personally I don't recommend working with sharpen/blur unless it's just a pattern that won't lose too much from this procedure. An artwork might lose detail that you'd rather keep. I usually work with a large original file (since I work in Photoshop, I save as psd) and make smaller copies that I save as jpgs to try them on the item I am making. When I am satisfied, I make a copy of the high quality original and save as a new and finished jpg. After that I try to avoid any more changes. (If you can't save a high quality file such as a psd, I suggest you work with a large and high-resolution image, like sylphie said, 300 dpi, and then make a copy when you're satisfied, and reduce the resolution to 72 and adjust the size to what you want and only then save the finished jpg.) [Fire-Valkyrie]

Q: Do I need to buy a program to compress pictures to under 40k and still keep them at a high quality? I am using Adobe Photoshop.


A: I'm sure others will have information for you here as well. By compression, my interpretation is that you want to make the file size smaller. But you haven't said if you want to keep the picture the size it is currently. Is the image in jpg, gif, bmp or png format? That itself will help determine what steps you will have to take. Jpg is a format which gives you the smallest file size while often maintaining the size of the picture. But downsizing just a bit can also give you a smaller file size. I've seen others speak of techniques they have used.
(You'll find more on image compression without loss of quality here, on both the main page and in the comments.)

A: No, you don't need to buy an extra program. You should be able to do it in Photoshop (and for anyone else: there are free programs to use for image editing so usually no need to buy unless you want really good programs). It is true however, that Photoshop tends to make images larger than you expect, when saving. When you save as a jpg in Photoshop you'll get the option to change the quality (a scale from 0 to 10). Often you can reduce the quality to about 5 or 6 without it having too much effect on the image, but it's better to stay on 7 or 8, in my opinion. If you find you need to go down towards 2, 1 or even 0 to get a small enough size, you would be better off trying another way. These may be: reducing the resolution (72 dpi is best for online images), the image size or the detail (that is, you can blur the image somewhat - that usually makes a jpg smaller). If it's a fairly simple image with few and distinct colours, it might be better to save as a gif. Greyscale images also tend to be smaller, although that will not always serve your purpose! Btw, when you save a jpg in Photoshop, it tells you what the final size will be - always excpect it to add 10 kB to this size: that's what my program always does. So to keep below 40kB I save at a size and quality that Photoshop tells me will end up at about 30 kB or less... [Fire-Valkyrie]

Q: Having never used any kind of creative software before, what's the best program to start with?

A: Everyone will likely have a different answer. I use Paint Shop Pro by Jasc. For what specifically are you using the program? That will also help determine which program offers the best options.


Q: In Adobe Photoshop, I use layers to experiment and learn while I am making a picture. If I like what I have added, I flatten the image, then open a new layer. Does it matter if I continue to flatten the image after each layer?

A: While flattening the layers will help you to keep the image more stable (especially if the program tends to crash due to numerous reasons), layering - and I do it in PSP not photoshop, so I don't know for sure if saving without 'merging' or flattening, will allow you to access all the other layers after closing down and reopening. In PSP, if you save in open layers, they are still accessible. Saving an image merged, and then closing down the program, no longer gives you access to the original layers.

A: It is not necessary to merge layers in either PSP or Photoshop in order to add additional layers. Until the layers are merged, each layer is still editable, so, a good rule of thumb is NOT to merge any layers with the original image until you are satisfied with your results as a whole. [sylphie]

Q:What is the difference in keeping all layers open until the work is completed?


A: You have access to the layers throughout if you don't merge/flatten. If you merge/flatten and save and close, as mentioned above, those layers are no longer available. (This is true of both PSP and Photoshop. - sylphie)

Q: Also, what's the difference between flattening a picture and using merge layers?

A: In PSP merging is generally the same as flattening. There is an 'open' merge in PSP, but I don't know what photoshop allows.

A: Flattening an image merges and locks all layers into a single image. Merging does not necessarily involve all layers. For instance, if you have 3 cloud layers added to an image, and 2 star layers, you can merge the cloud layers separately from the star layers, or merge them all separately from the background image. In some cases, where many layers are required to complete an image, this may be desirable. [sylphie]


Q: I have noticed some art in Cybertown, such as belonging to jet.blackhart, has an octagon-shaped frame around it. The frame options I have in Adobe Photoshop are square. Can different shaped frames be made in Adobe Photoshop?


A: Jet's frames are actually 3d objects made in spazz or flux3d. Different frame styles can be simulated in either PSP or Photoshop, but they will only produce an image of a frame that becomes part of your picture. For actual 3D shapes for your artwork, I heartily recommend EmmySky's tutorial called "3D for the 2D artist", which I hope she will be posting here shortly.